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Summary

Montreal's Legendary Moishes Steakhouse Is Back & Ready To Carve A New Chapter (PHOTOS)

One of the city's oldest restaurants has a new home.

The Moishes bar with a chandelier and hanging plants. Right: Sofia in a red booth.

The Moishes bar with a chandelier and hanging plants. Right: Sofia in a red booth.

Editor

The saying "Absence makes the heart grow fonder" rings true for Montrealers who've been missing Moishes Steakhouse and its classic dishes. After a three-year hiatus, the famed restaurant is reigniting its grills in a grand new location at Square Victoria.

Initially founded by Moishe Lighter in 1938, the steakhouse shut down temporarily due to the pandemic in 2020. Following a $5 million investment, the reimagined Moishes is poised to make its comeback, holding true to its roots while adding a few updates.

The entrance to the new Moishes location with a floor-to-ceiling mural by Jason Wasserman.The entrance to the new Moishes location with a floor-to-ceiling mural by Jason Wasserman.Sofia Misenheimer | MTL Blog

From the moment you step inside, the nostalgia of the old Moishes wraps around like a hug. The lush red velvet seating, friendly coat check, and cordial service will transport you back to the original restaurant.

However, the familiar setting has been modernized with cascading plants over the bar, hardwood floors replacing the soft carpet, and floor-to-ceiling windows bathing the space in natural light.

Divided into four areas, the new establishment aims to recreate the ambiance of the original location. Each section, spanning a bar, two dining rooms, and a private room, was designed in collaboration with local artists to evoke Moishes' history.

"We've preserved original pieces, like the chandeliers, and butcher's scales, and incorporated sustainable materials into the chic, minimalist decor," said Patty Xenos, president and creative director at PXDI, who revamped the space. She previously worked with Leonard Lighter, son of Moishes' founder, on the renovation of the dining institution in 2011.

The dining room has chandeliers from the original location and windows into the kitchen.The dining room has chandeliers from the original location and windows into the kitchen.Sofia Misenheimer | MTL Blog

At the entrance, customers are greeted by a massive mural by Jason Wasserman that traces Moishes' journey through the ages. The bar area showcases the onyx from the original bar, while photographs by David Leonard Sidaway and a historic map of Montreal from the National Archives decorate the first dining room.

The second dining room will showcase temporary collections from the Canada Council Art Bank, while the private dining room will display a bespoke piece by acclaimed Montreal artist André Monet.

The new Moishes bar and two rooms behind.The new Moishes bar and two rooms behind.Sofia Misenheimer | MTL Blog

Of course, the real spirit of Moishes is revived through the restaurant's menu, which has been reimagined by Chef Murteza Talu. Meat-based offerings remain the star of the show. A standout is the 12-hour smoked, 48-hour sous vide beef short rib — the meat's tenderness is amplified by a creamy polenta.

The spicy beef tartare served on a crouton with manchego cheese and the creamy, flavourful wagyu beef stay true to Moishes' legacy of serving up high-quality cuts.

Seafood lovers will be thrilled with the smoked, soft octopus salad and zesty salmon carpaccio topped with caviar.

For those seeking lighter options, the zucchini fritters on sour cream harken back to Moishes' famed Montecarlo potatoes, while the salad, filled with fresh bocconcini, walnut crunch, and a hint of onion acidity, is the perfect companion to a protein-centric dish.

Drinks and a beef rib canape. Right: Shrimp cocktail. Drinks and a beef rib canape. Right: Shrimp cocktail. Sofia Misenheimer | MTL Blog

"Moishes is one of Montreal's oldest culinary institutions still in operation today, thanks to an offering whose quality has never wavered," said Jean Bédard, president and CEO of the Grandio Group. The group behind the La Cage Brasserie Sportive restaurant chain is now at the helm of the legendary steakhouse.

"It's a unique story of courageous, authentic, and passionate immigrant entrepreneurs who celebrate their roots but are even prouder to be Montrealers," said Bédard.

The new restaurant nods to the past while charting a contemporary course. Even after moving, Moishes can't help but retain its legendary reputation.

Moishes

Where: 1001, rue du Square-Victoria

More at moishes.ca

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  • Sofia Misenheimer is a former editor of MTL Blog. She has an M.A. in Communication Studies from McGill University. In her spare time, she shares little-known travel gems via #roamunknownco, and can often be found jogging in the Old Port.

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