Sure, the American store's Canadian menu is relatively bare-bones (especially when you compare it to the wild lineup of items available at U.S. locations), but every now and then, Costco Canada tosses shoppers a curveball.
That was the case this spring when the Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich made its return to food courts across the country, including right here in Quebec, the birthplace of the iconic deli staple.
Naturally, I had to try it.
As someone who grew up in Montreal, smoked meat's always been part of the picture, especially from iconic spots like Schwartz's. I wouldn't call myself a purist, but I'd like to think I know what a decent sandwich should taste like. So when I saw Costco bring back its version, I figured I'd finally give it a shot.
In this review, we're keeping it simple: how does Costco's version hold up in terms of presentation, taste, and value? Let's dig in.
The presentation
Costco's food options usually fall into three categories: fast, cheap, and edible. Aesthetics are not really part of the deal, and that holds true for their smoked meat sandwich.
While the menu photo shows a neatly stacked creation piled high with thick slices of seasoned meat, what I got after a nearly 20-minute wait looked more like a sad, squished version of that. It came bare, and like anything else at Costco that needs condiments, you've got to add the mustard yourself from the nearby dispenser.
It looks a lot like something you can whip up in your kitchen in under 5 minutes. Al Sciola | MTL Blog
The sandwich wasn't as hot as I would've liked, and there definitely wasn't as much meat as I expected. That said, the giant pickle on the side was a nice touch, giving the dish a bit more of a classic deli feel.
The taste
At the end of the day, I care more about how something tastes than how it looks, and this was, surprisingly, not bad.
While I know nobody's slow-smoking a giant brisket in the back of a Costco, the meat was juicy and flavourful. I was a bit surprised by the choice of bread. Given the warehouse's inventory, you'd think they'd go with classic rye, which is what smoked meat is almost always served on. But they instead opted for their signature 9-grain triangle bun. And to be honest, it worked. It held everything together better than the usual two slices of rye probably would.
Anyone who's eaten a proper smoked meat sandwich knows half the meat usually ends up falling out, but that wasn't the case here.
It's definitely not the best smoked meat I've ever had (Schwartz's still holds the crown), but it's far from the worst.
The value
It's certainly not the best deal on the menu.Al Sciola | MTL Blog
At $7.99, Costco's smoked meat sandwich definitely costs more than the classics you usually grab at the food court. It's a big jump from their $1.50 hot dog and drink combo, or the $12.99 price tag for an entire pizza. Heck, even the fountain drinks are still just $0.99.
But when you compare it to what you'd pay for smoked meat around Montreal at places like Schwartz's or Dunn's — where a sandwich will run you $15 to $20 — it feels like a deal.
That said, you're not getting the same portion size or deli counter experience. There's less meat, no table service, and you're squeezing your own mustard from a nearby dispenser. Still, for under eight bucks, it holds up as a decent option if you've got a smoked meat craving and happen to be near a Costco.
The opinions expressed in this article are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect the views of Narcity Media.
The May 19, 2023, Google doodle celebrating poutine.