In the heart of Griffintown, Montreal's newest food and culture festival, Chợ Đêm, started with a bang on Thursday, June 15. Throngs of Montrealers gathered along the Quais at Bassin Peel to try Vietnamese dishes and explore the many items for sale — it was an almost overwhelming variety of food and goodies, so it's understandable if you're not sure where to start.
Thankfully, I visited on the opening day just to bring back some words of wisdom for future Chợ Đêm attendees, who will have the chance to enjoy the festivities through the evening of June 18th.
Co-organized by a star team of Vietnamese Montrealers, from food bloggers to chefs to representatives from the Association Vietnamiens Québecois (AVQ), Chợ Đêm features nearly 40 vendors, performers, organizations and food stalls, gathered under Vietnamese lanterns among the classic plastic tables and chairs that capture the energy of Vietnamese night markets.
Get there early & be strategic
Crowds fill the Quais at Bassin Peel.
Willa Holt | MTL Blog
I reached the festival grounds just after 6 p.m. when the crowds were still thin enough for me and my partner to get our pick of the food offerings. Unsurprisingly, the La Belle Tonki stand was already bustling with activity, and it only increased as the night went on. For those looking to have a full meal at the festival, I recommend getting there early and picking your dishes in advance using the festival's information featured on their Linktree. It's not a perfect account of every dish available, but it's a good place to start.
Later on, the grounds grew crowded with hundreds of visitors, so chasing down a filling dinner was a bit of an ordeal.If you're willing to wait for a while in a long line, you're bound to get some excellent Vietnamese fare, so bring a buddy or a good podcast to make the downtime a bit more fun.
Try something new, don't stick to what you know
The full meal I got, including two rather plain cocktails.
As a media person, I received two pre-assigned meal tickets and two drink tickets (more on those later). Each meal ticket was valid at a specific food vendor, so I was able to try Poke Bento's pork ramen and Nha Sang's whipped egg coffee. The ramen was warm and filling with a delicate broth, but in retrospect, it was definitely not the most bold or brave of choices. Instead, opt for less-mainstream traditional dishes like bò lá lốt (grilled beef wrapped in piper lolot leaves), gỏi đu đủ xanh (green papaya salad), or Súp Hoành Thánh (Vietnamese style Wonton Soup).
There's plenty to discover and enjoy, so skip the familiar stuff and branch out a little. The best part? If you try something you don't love, there are three more days of the festival and dozens more dishes to test out!
Don't skip the non-alcoholic drinks
The author holds an iced egg coffee from Nha Sang.
The festival's bar offerings are slightly underwhelming, but that's not a problem when the non-alcoholic drinks range from bubble tea to iced egg coffee to fresh pineapple juice served in the fruit! Rather than expecting high-calibre cocktails, give the range of all-ages drinks a shot, and you might discover your new favourite beverage.
I tried the Vietnamese iced egg coffee, also called cà phê trứng đá Việt Nam, and it was light, sweet and absolutely delicious. Be sure to shake it thoroughly before you drink!
Visit the vendors
A vendor sells plants along the far side of the festival.
The wide range of Vietnamese products for sale included a variety of cool plants, even fruiting trees! The crowds seemed to gather mainly around the food vendors, but that just means it's easy to browse the other side of the festival at your leisure. I didn't spend as much time at each booth as I would have liked, and that's just to say that there's plenty to do multiple days in a row!
Each booth represents a business with a tie to Vietnamese culture and a vested interest in sharing their wares with you, so don't be afraid to ask kind, curious questions and window shop as much as you like.
Stay for the performances!
Dance troupe The Archive performs a set on the stage.
From dance troupes to singers to DJ sets and more, there are plenty of acts performing at a festival stage for what is the first but certainly not the last time! Stay close to the stage to watch modern dance, traditional songs and some creative Vietnamese DJ sets that will cast the perfect backdrop to your drinking, eating and shopping. It's worth snagging a seat near the performances early since they get snapped up quite quickly.
The roster of performers is impressively varied for a festival in its very first year, and it's something undeniably special to experience the inaugural edition of an event celebrating a vibrant community in Montreal. As the Farine Five Roses sign blinks in the background of the colourful lamps that light up the sky, take a moment to be grateful for the work that brought every part of this festival into your life!
When and where is Chợ Đêm taking place?
The festival takes place at the Quais at Bassin Peel in Griffintown. The exact address is 1049 De la Commune St W, Montreal, Quebec, and it's accessible by public transit via the 35 East bus line as well as metro Bonaventure (it's a 15-minute walk from the station to Bassin Peel).
The festival's schedule is as follows:
Friday, June 16, 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.
Saturday, June 17, 12 p.m. - 10 p.m.
Sunday, June 18, 12 p.m. - 10 p.m.
How much is entry to Chợ Đêm?
Admission to Chợ Đêm MTL 2023 is $3, payable by credit card, debit card or cash. Children aged 12 and under get in free, as long as they're accompanied by an adult. Dogs are also welcome, and you don't have to pay for their entry either (ha ha, obviously).
The festival's stalls use a mix of cash, credit and debit, but most of them are accessible using at least two of these. Take note that there's no ATM on site.