I spent a whimsical winter weekend in Montreal — Here's everything I did to feel festive
A frankly ✨ unreasonable ✨ amount of festive cheer.
Here's how I spent a perfect festive weekend in Montreal.
Whether you like it or not, the holidays are just around the corner, which means street corners look a little sparklier, lobbies have suddenly sprouted enormous Christmas trees, and every drink now has a borderline unpleasant amount of cinnamon in it.
If you're not feeling festive yet — or you're simply in need of a gentle nudge toward seasonal cheer — a weekend in Montreal is a remarkably reliable cure. In fact, it might be Canada's most committed holiday city.
Don't just take my word for it, though. Last year, Condé Nast Traveller crowned Montreal one of the best places in the country to soak up the holiday season, and it's easy to see why.
Between the twinkly cobblestone streets, cozy cafes serving festive pastries and aggressively seasonal hot chocolates, and boutiques stuffed with artisanal gifts for everyone on your list, it's about as close as you'll get to a European Christmas without crossing the Atlantic.
So, in the name of fully embracing the season — and getting my festive knickers firmly on — I planned a perfectly whimsical, wintry weekend in Montreal last year.
Whether you're visiting from afar for a taste of Euro-Christmas or you're a local looking to reacquaint yourself with the city's festive staples (no obscure hidden gems here, sorry), look no further.
Here's everything I did in Montreal to feel excessively festive — and how you can do the same, whether you've got 48 hours, 24 hours or only a couple to spare.
Eat

I started my festive weekend with brunch at the iconic Duc de Lorraine, a long-time local favourite and an ideal place to kick off any weekend dedicated to seasonal indulgence. 'Tis the season, after all, and my friend and I came dangerously close to ordering the entire menu.
After consuming what can only be described as a structurally ambitious amount of coffee, seasonal mocktails, avocado toast, eggs Benedict and pancakes, we made the fatal mistake of opening the dessert menu. One crème brûlée, a serving of macarons, and a chocolate-filled croissant later, I was seasonably stuffed — very much in keeping with Santa's vision.
While you're there, don't miss Duc de Lorraine's truly stunning display of cakes, pastries and desserts in their glass counters, complete with gingerbread houses and festive little figures (including bears in Santa hats) that are almost too adorable to place on top of a cake. Almost.

Thought terrasse season was exclusive to summer? Not in Montreal. For dinner, head to Terrasse William Gray for a charming winter dining experience that's both cozy and wonderfully wintry.
Perched on the eighth floor of Hotel William Gray, its transparent domes offer panoramic views of Place Jacques-Cartier, the St. Lawrence River, and the Grande Roue de Montreal, all while you stay tucked inside a softly lit bubble.
The seasonal menu leans into local Quebec ingredients, warm and hearty plates, and specialty cocktails that pair beautifully with the city's sparkling winter vistas.

If you're vegetarian, easing off animal products before the holiday marathon, or just hoping to eat something that isn't 90% bread and cheese, LOV was my preferred refuge — calmer, lighter, and free of festive sensory overload.
For anyone already at capacity with Christmas cheer, it's the ideal place to retreat, load up on vegetables and sip a beautifully presented cocktail in relative peace — without sacrificing the jolly atmosphere, of course.
Drink

It wouldn't be a truly festive weekend in Montreal without a stop at the suitably decadent La Taverne de Noël, which made me feel as though I was preparing for the holidays in 1989. You're not so much greeted as walloped by nostalgic Christmas cheer — a full sensory assault in tinsel form.
There's something genuinely heartwarming about the bar's absolute commitment to Christmas chaos. Even the Grinchiest of Grinches would struggle to resist the rising tide of seasonal excitement once they're inside.
There's vintage holiday decor, wreaths, candles, festive music, mistletoe, garlands and a scent that can only be described as "Christmas when you were a kid."

The drinks menu is just as charming, featuring creations like the ChocoMauve — a creamy hot chocolate piled high with marshmallows — and The Grinch, which arrives unmistakably green and surprisingly tangy.
A fair warning, though: this level of frantic Christmas carnage attracts crowds. Expect a wait, especially on weekends. But once you're in, it's entirely worth it. The whole place feels like a retro holiday fever dream, as if Stranger Things briefly pivoted to Christmas programming.
Frolick
Nothing screams "Christmas" quite like a few warmly lit, sparkling Instagram photos, and the alley at Maison Pepin is the physical embodiment of festive holiday magic.
Each year, the hidden outdoor alley (accessed discreetly through the lifestyle boutique) is transformed with pine boughs, twinkly decor and cozy lights, all tailored to a new seasonal theme.
You can even book private photo sessions, whether for family portraits, couple shots, friend groups or, as I witnessed, one exceedingly glamorous dog. It's also an excellent option for solo photos, sparing you the delicate task of teaching your boyfriend how not to crop your head out.

For a bit of free fun, wander the streets of Old Montreal and admire the city's most beautiful holiday storefronts. This activity becomes exponentially more charming after dark.
And, of course, take a moment to pop into the famously touristy — yet undeniably delightful — Boutique Noël Éternel. Pick out a new ornament for your tree and let it serve as a small reminder of your perfectly festive weekend in the city.

An honourable mention
A couple of things that didn't make it onto my 2024 festive weekend itinerary — but absolutely would for 2025 — include:
Noël Montreal's two Christmas markets, that bring a frankly unreasonable amount of charm to the city. The Great Montreal Christmas Market turns the Quartier des Spectacles into a snuggly holiday village, while the Christmas Village at Atwater Market leans into artisanal gifts, local treats and barrels full of hot cocoa.
Plus, if there's one thing more charming than professional decorating and storefront displays, it's personal home setups.
Montreal's tourism board says that a wander through almost any neighbourhood becomes a light-strewn walking tour at this time of year, but spots like Square Saint-Louis, Westmount, Dorchester Square–Place du Canada, the Plateau and Mile End get a special mention for their particularly enthusiastic glow.
Happy holidays, Montreal!
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Some of the experiences in this story were provided to Helena Hanson at no cost, with no expectation of coverage, positive or otherwise.
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