My favourite tourist destination to visit is Montreal — and, in my opinion, the fact that I live here is totally irrelevant.
You see, I love "playing tourist" in my own city so much that when people ask me what my hobbies are, it's my number one response. Here's how the conversation usually goes:
Them: "What are your hobbies?"
Me: "Acting like a tourist in my own city."
Them, a bemused look now plastered across their face: "That's not a real hobby. Gardening is a hobby. Baking is a hobby. Do you by chance practice calligraphy? Now that's a hobby."
Fine. They don't say the last part out loud. But I can tell they're thinking it and, frankly, I don't care. "Playing tourist" is the thing that encompasses all the ways in which I like to fill my free time: trying new restaurants, scoping out street art, strolling through different neighbourhoods, striking up conversations with strangers at events and so on.
Basically, I am filled with joy every time I do something that takes me out of my usual routine and helps me see my home base from a new lens — a lens that makes everything look bright and shiny and rose-coloured, the way someone might see Montreal if they were singling it out for their next trip.
Since it's easy to get caught up in the humdrum of everyday life, it's sometimes tough for me to convince my local friends and family members to do touristy things with me. But hosting visitors is the perfect excuse to strap on a fanny pack and make the city your oyster (especially if the oysters cost $1 at a charming little bar with a stellar 5 Ã 7). So, when my mom and brother came to town, I took full advantage of the opportunity to live like a tourist in Montreal for a few days.
Here's how it went — from my must-try recommendations to things you can skip, as well as tips and tricks we learned along the way.
Damas
As a dedicated food lover, whenever I go on vacation, I make sure to budget for one restaurant on my bucket list. This "trip," it was Damas — Outremont's renowned Syrian food spot, which has topped more "best restaurant" lists than I can name without developing carpal tunnel syndrome from all the typing. Sometimes, famous restaurants wind up being overhyped and I leave feeling disappointing, especially when the bill comes and I realize it wasn't worth the splurge. This was not at all the case at Damas, which I felt was worth every penny.
First of all, the restaurant itself is beautiful, creating an upscale yet casual and comfortable Middle Eastern environment adorned with warm colours, velours, carved wood and multicoloured lights. There's also a lovely terrasse, which I highly recommend on a nice day.
Secondly, the service is impeccable. The waitstaff are extremely attentive and our water glasses were never left less than full.
Finally, of course, there's the food and drinks.
I started with the Hibiscus Sipper, a refreshing gin cocktail made with hibiscus, cucumber and sumac, which was the perfect balance of sweet, fruity, tart and acidic.
We opted for the tasting menu, which allows your table to try 10 to 12 shared dishes selected by the chef. This is the best way to get a small portion of all the highlights — ideal for first timers. Note that the tasting menu is only available to a minimum of two people and must be ordered by the entire table.
Every single dish was not only delicious and cooked to perfection, but also a flavour explosion in my mouth introducing my taste buds to combinations of seasonings, textures and tastes that I had never experienced before.
Some of my favourites dishes included the fattouch salad, which is diced finely and topped with dried mint, sumac and pomegranate seeds, the lamb chops and the shish taouk chicken breast. But, honestly, it felt like we couldn't have gone wrong here, no matter what we had chosen to order.
Pro tips: We had to eat earlier than we would have liked at 6 p.m. because space fills up quickly. Reserve as far in advance as possible. Also, if you mark down that it's your birthday when you're placing the reservation, they'll put a lit candle in your dessert without you needing to say a word.
Price: The regular tasting menu costs $160 per person, while the pescetarian tasting menu costs $150 per person. You can add wine pairings for an additional cost.
When: Tuesday to Sunday from 5:30 pm to 10 p.m.
Address: Restaurant Damas – 1201, av. Van Horne
Accessibility: There is a step at the main entrance, but Damas says its restaurant is currently wheelchair accessible. Let them know in advance if you wish to use the ramp.
Damas Restaurant website
Jean Talon Market
Considering that I live closer to Atwater Market than Jean Talon, I don't spend much time at Montreal's largest marché public. But being there with my visitors reminded me of how expansive it is with its rows of fruits, vegetables, flowers, spices, oils, cheeses, pastries, restaurant stalls and artisan products. In fact, it's actually one of the largest open-air markets in North America, according to Canada Culinary Tourism.
I don't think we even actually bought anything but the sights and sounds — colours, textures and live music — were enough to make it an interesting and stimulating way to spend a Saturday morning. Bear in mind that on a Saturday in the summer, when the weather is good, the market will be packed. This can be fun if you like hustle and bustle, but also overwhelming. Opt for off-hours or a weekday if you prefer a quieter ambiance.
Unless you're really into markets and want a big selection, you can probably skip Jean Talon in favour of a market closer to you. That said, the bonus of Jean Talon Market is that it serves a perfect gateway from which to explore the surrounding area, including Little Italy and Villeray, which is chock-full of bars, restaurants, cafés, boutiques and unique shops like Halte Ludique (formerly Randolph), which specializes in board games, puzzles and toys.
We stopped by Le Kahéra where I got the most refreshing Limonana, ate a scrumptious Thai lunch at Épicerie Pumpui and widow shopped for cannolis (by that point, I was too full to eat anything). If the timing had worked out, I probably would have suggested that we end the day at Parc Jarry to catch the sunset.
When: Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Address: 7070, av. Henri-Julien
Accessibility: Yes. There are wheelchair accessible entrances and washrooms.
Jean Talon Market website
The Mile End Special
By this point, you can probably tell that I am a food-focused tourist and my travels revolve predominantly around food. I swear I will soon move on to some non-food related activities. But before I do, let me tell you about the Mile End Special.
I had been wanting to try a freddo from Café Alphabet ever since they went viral for their bright pink and green freddo matcha amour and I have also been wanting to try a donut from Bernie Beigne for as long as it has been open. But gastronomic adventures are so much more fun in good company, so I was waiting for the right moment.
Thanks to a merch partnership between these two establishments — which are right across the street from one another — a stop to get goodies from both places is now known as the Mile End Special. This special is exactly what Blake Lively ordered on her own recent tourist expedition in the 514. And, as I always say, what's good enough for Blake Lively is good enough for me! OK, that was my first time saying that. But it felt right. Does anyone have Ryan Reynolds' phone number?
Since the Mile End is within walking distance of Little Italy, I was able to muster up enough of an appetite en route.
My crew and I shared a classic glazed donut and a nutella donut from Bernie. In both cases, the fluffy melt-in-your-mouth dough was absolutely divine. But nutella is such an overpowering flavour that I'd suggest keeping it simple with donuts this good, opting for classic flavours over super decadent ones.
When we finished our donuts, I skipped and hopped across the street (either from excitement or the sugar rush), and got myself a freddo cappuccino. Though the viral freddo matcha amour isn't currently available, as it's a limited edition menu item, the classic freddos are just as tasty. This was my first time trying a freddo cappuccino, a variety of Greek iced coffee topped with cold frothed milk, and — as someone who loves foamy coffee — it really hit the spot as a heavenly summer beverage.
The downside? I was waiting in line for what felt like ages. The queue spanned the entire café and it was pretty hot in there. Again, you might want to go during off-hours or be prepared to wait. If you're with a group and you want the whole Mile End Special, it could be wise to save time by splitting up, each tackling one location before meeting up to share your treats.
Price:
- Freddo cappuccino: $6 plus tax
- Donut: Around $2.65 to $3.50 each, depending on the type
When:
- Bernie Beigne: Wednesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. while supplies last (closed for vacation July 22 to August 13, 2024)
- Café Alphabet: Monday to Friday from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturday to Sunday from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Address:
- Bernie Beigne – 23, rue Bernard O.
- Café Alphabet – 5765, rue Clark
Accessibility: Steps at entry.
Bernie Beigne Instagram & Café Alphabet website
Montreal Botanical Garden (Space for Life)
Yes, finally something other than food. I had been dreaming of going to the Botanical Garden ever since I started covering the cherry blossom beat in the spring, struck by how stunning and peaceful it looked in photos. And I was actually blown away by fact that it looked even better IRL.
First of all, I didn't realize how huge the site is — 75 hectares (190 acres) sounds big, but what does that really mean? Well, that's about 144 American football fields filled with lush greenery, a remarkably diverse array of plants, 10 greenhouses and 20 or so different thematic gardens.
My favourite was the Chinese Garden. The pavillions, in the style of the Ming era, surrounding a 60 by 40 metre turquoise lake, transport you straight from Quebec to Asia as you are overcome with calmness, serenity and the complexity of life, just like the architects intended with their dominant design principles of yin and yang.
I also loved the lilac orchard, which showcased a variety of different (and wonderfully fragrant) lilacs, as far as the eye could see.
Since it was Victoria Day weekend, we had missed the cherry blossoms by a smidge, their pink petals covering the ground, so make sure to time your visit according to which flowers you'd like to see. You can use the Garden's Calendar of blooms and Blooms of the week tracker to do so.
Initially, we were supposed to partake in the O-hanami Picnic Under the Flowering Crabapple Trees, a paid one-day event where you eat Bento box lunches in the Japanese Garden beneath the pink crabapple blossoms, while getting a taste of Japanese culture through performances, such as Arashi Daïko (Japanese drums), but it was sold out before we could reserve our spots. While passing through the picnic, we realized we were actually happier doing our own thing and it wouldn't have been worth it for us to pay the additional fee, as we preferred other gardens to the Japanese garden and liked moving at our own pace in less crowded areas.
That does, however, remind me to remind you to think about food ahead of time. We got super hungry and there is only one place to eat at the Botanical Garden, a vegetarian cafeteria-style restaurant called Restaurant Jardin Botanique. While it was delicious, utilizing local ingredients grown on-site, there was a huge line-up so either be prepared to wait on a busy day or bring your own food instead. You are permitted to picnic in designated areas (in front of the Lion statue and at the Frédéric Back Tree Pavilion), and the restaurant terrasse has outdoor tables where you can eat food you brought from home.
I'd also suggest buying your tickets online in advance to reserve your spot. We would have gotten in regardless, but we were able to skip the line as a result of having tickets. If you think you'll be visiting a lot of Space for Life's natural museums this summer (or visiting the same ones frequently), it may make the most sense for you to purchase an Espace pour la vie Passport, which is 25% off from June 7 to 28, allowing you unlimited access to the Biodôme, Biosphère, Insectarium, Botanical Garden and Planétarium.
Price:
- Admission to the Botanical Garden: $17.50 per adult for residents of Greater Montreal or $23.25 for out-of-towners
- Espace pour la vie Passport: $63.75 per adult (or $85 regular price)
When: At the time this was written, Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Address: 4101, rue Sherbrooke E.
Accessibility: Mostly accessible, but some sections of the outdoor site are not accessible for people with limited mobility because of the road surface or too steep a slope. These locations are indicated by signs to that effect.
Montreal Botanical Garden website
E-Bike Tour
Full disclosure, I did Fitz Montreal's Street Art E-Bike Tour alone at a later date because I was invited to do so as part of a press event. But I know my mom and brother would've really enjoyed it, and I found the experience to be an amazing way to get to know my own city on a deeper level. I learned so many things that I never knew about the murals I pass by on a regular basis, and our guide Thom Seivewright did an excellent job of connecting said murals to the history and culture that make Montreal tick.
I also loved the fact that this tour was on an e-bike. I'd never ridden one before and it was awesome — comfortable and simple to use. It felt as if someone had given me a magical pill that turned me into Lance Armstrong, since you can go faster and farther with ease. This meant the tour could cover a lot more ground than with regular bikes or by walking, so you can see more of the city (and get less sweaty doing it). If you haven't cruised down The Main on an e-bike at sunset, you're missing out.
While I opted to do Fitz Montreal's Street Art E-Bike Tour, there are many different tours run by various local companies and guides, all offering you the chance to build a stronger connection to the place where you live and find meaning in everyday landscapes you might've become desensitized to, so pick whichever tour speaks to you.
Fitz also has regular bike tours of city highlights and hidden gems (both $69.95 if booked 48 hours in advance) as well as an off-the-beaten-path walking tour of Old Montreal ($39.95 if booked 48 hours in advance). My guide Thom, who was knowledgeable, personable and — most importantly — passionate about Montreal, a city where he was born and raised, also leads his own Montreal tours, including one on queer history and "THE Montréal Bagel Tour."
Price: $89.95
When: Friday and Saturday at 10 a.m.
Address: Fitz Montreal Bike Tours – 1251, rue Rachel E.
Fitz Montreal website
Fairmount Bagel
Speaking of bagels, what trip to Montreal could be complete without Montreal bagels? Of course, most Montrealers have already tried the city's most iconic spots and sit in one of two different camps: Saint-Viateur or Fairmount. But that's not the only relevant question to ask when it comes to these round, doughy, honey-water boiled, wood-fired baked delights. There's also the matter of whether you're a sesame seed person or a poppy seed person. If you're anything like me, you struggle to make this decision every time.
Only recently did I find out about Fairmount's Bozo bagel, which is three bagels twisted into one giant bagel with sesame seeds on one side and poppy seeds on the other. I knew I had to try it, and rushed over to Fairmount on Monday morning to give it a whirl.
The first thing to note is that, since this was a holiday Monday, I once again had to wait in line. The line did move fairly quickly and I don't think I was waiting longer than 20 minutes. The second thing to note is that Fairmount now accepts payment by debit card so you don't need to lose your place in line while running to the nearest ATM to take out cash like I did.
In terms of the Bozo bagel itself, it wasn't my fave. I found that because it was bigger, it was doughier and less crisp — which might please fans of Toronto or New York style bagels, but Montreal bagel stans such as myself still need our firm outer edge. I did like the mix of sesame and poppy, but I probably wouldn't order this item again, opting instead for a more classic option. And, if we're really being honest, I'm a born and raised Saint-Viateur gal myself, having come from a Saint-Viateur family.
Price: $4 for the Bozo (other bagels start at $1.40)
When: Open 24 hours
Address: 74, av. Fairmount O.
Accessibility: There is a ramp, but the shop is small and cramped.
Fairmount website
This article has been updated since it was originally published on June 27, 2024.
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